Prologue : scene of arrival -- Introduction : Poles and Jews : significant others -- Making sense of place : history, mythology, authenticity -- The mission : mass Jewish Holocaust pilgrimage -- The quest : scratching the heart -- Shabbos goyim : Polish stewards of Jewish spaces -- Traveling tschotschkes and "post-Jewish" culture -- Jewish like an adjective : expanding the collective self -- Conclusion : toward a Polish-Jewish milieu de mémoire.