Waves, tides, and shallow-water processes / prepared by an Open University Course Team
- Published
- Oxford ; New York : Pergamon Press ; Milton Keynes, Eng. : Open University, c1989.
- Physical Description
- 186 p. : ill. (some col.) ; 26 cm.
- Additional Creators
- Open University. Oceanography Course Team
- Contents
- WAVES: What are waves? -- Wave-forms -- Wave dispersion and group speed -- Wave energy -- Waves of unusual character -- Measurement of waves -- TIDES: Tide-producing forces-the earth-moon system -- Tide-producing forces-the earth-sun system -- The dynamic theory of tides -- Types of tide -- AN INTRODUCTION TO SHALLOW-WATER ENVIRONMENTS AND THEIR SEDIMENTS: The supply of sediment to shallow-water environments -- Variations in the supply and distribution of shallow-water sediments -- The relationships between shallow-water environments and their changes with time -- SEDIMENT MOVEMENT BY WAVES AND CURRENTS: Fluid flow -- Sediment erosion -- The rate of sediment transport -- The deposition of sediment -- Bed forms -- BEACHES AND THE LITTORAL ZONE: The divisions of the littoral zone -- Sediment movement in the littoral zone -- Beach profiles -- Beach materials and sedimentary structures -- TIDAL FLATS AND ESTUARIES: Sediment transport and deposition on tidal flats -- Estuaries -- DALTAS: The structure of a delta -- Mixing and sediment deposition at distributary mouths -- SHELF SEAS: Shelf sediments -- Shelf processes -- Bed forms on the continental shelf -- Shelf processes and sea-bed resources.
- Subject(s)
- ISBN
- 0080363725
0080363717 (pbk.) - Note
- Prepared by the Oceanography Course Team.
- Bibliography Note
- Includes bibliographical references.
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